RETURN TO PREVIOUS PAGE Feast On a Variety of Barbecue at Hickory BBQ Smokehouse by Lori Pierce Abendschein, The Poughkeepsie Journal - February 6, 2004 Hickory Smokehouse (Good) 743 Route 28, Kingston (845) 338-2424 Entree Price Range: $12 - $18 Reservations: Suggested on weekends. Hours: Closed Wednesday; serving lunch and dinner daily, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, noon-9 p.m.; take-out, catering, patio dining, private parties; kid friendly, children's menu is available. Credit Cards: All major credit cards accepted. Handicap Accessible: Yes Food: Ambiance: Service: Value: Good barbecue is worth seeking out, and the barbecue at Hickory BBQ Smokehouse is no exception. Perched on Route 28 in Kingston, this family endeavor, owned by brothers Mark and Steve Slutzky, has caught on since its opening in late 2002. The restaurant is housed in a large open building. The long dining rooms are comfy, with booths along one side and tables along the other, and a massive gas fireplace. Inverted metal pails double as lighting fixtures, warming the large quantity of paneling throughout the restaurant. While waiting for our table, we spent some time at the bar. Thanks to the knowledgeable and helpful bartender, we familiarized ourselves with the menu and took the opportunity to sample draught brews from Kingston's own Keegan Brewery. First a hearty dark, creamy stout known as Mother's Milk, and another brew that was more lighter with a golden hue called Old Capital. Breads a welcome starter Once seated, we were happy to receive a basket of sweet hunks of maple cornbread and biscuits to enjoy with our brews. It all disappeared quickly while we waited for our server to make his way to our table. A Culinary Institute of America graduate, Mark Slutzky has designed a seasonal menu of revamped family recipes that incorporates many Hudson Valley ingredients. The menu features a full array of starters, salads, sandwiches, main courses and side dishes. We decided to start with a side of onion rings ($3.95). Their enormous size made an impression, but the crunchy beer batter coating was too oily. A cup of the evening's soup ($2.25) was delicious -- a thick, hearty Tuscan white bean with plenty of ham. There was no better way to get a true sample of Hickory's specialties than to share the Kingston Trio ($21.50) -- a sizeable platter with a choice of three of any of the smoked meats. The list includes St. Louis-style spare ribs with Doc Hickory's famous rub; slow-smoked roast beef; pulled pork shoulder; the chef's legendary 48-hour, free-range chicken; smoked turkey thighs; or hot Atlantic salmon. The platter and its accompanying two sides was plenty for two people and could have easily fed a third. Hickory's Legendary 48-hour, Free-Range Chicken won as our hands-down favorite. Before being hot smoked, the chicken receives a 48-hour soak in marinade, resulting in beautifully browned skin, pinkish, ultra tender meat with a terrific smoky flavor. The ribs were not what I had hoped. They were flavorful, but fatty. A nice heap of pulled pork on the plate was quite good, somewhat on the dryer side -- it's a labor of love I can't resist. Curiosity prompted me to try some of the sauces on the table. First, a sweet barbecue, then Carolina Mustard sauce, Spicy Barbecue and Jalapeno that produced a respectful burn. Accompanying our platter were two sides -- our choices -- a creamy macaroni and cheese and buttery brussel sprouts. Desserts are homemade and we found it difficult to remember the list that our waiter quickly clicked through. We happily settled on a nutty brownie made with maple syrup and a scoop of Jane's vanilla ice cream. Service was frustrating, as the staff at Hickory Barbecue is mostly young and inexperienced. Long pauses in service occurred when we were first seated, after entrees were cleared and again when we waited for our check. Dishes were not cleared nor were we offered refills on beverages. For certain, the Smokehouse is filled with a diverse group of patrons. There is entertainment on the weekends later in the evening. Joined with a relaxed atmosphere and good ''cue'' served up in family-style portions, Hickory Barbecue Smokehouse is a fun spot to check out. The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Lori Pierce Abendschein is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America and a member of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs.